So I had made a sports bra crop top thing and that got me thinking about the jumpsuits. I have been debating jumpsuits for about a year. In winter there is no interest in wearing a jumpsuit. Too cold. Still too cold now, in fact. But the last few weeks were warmer and so that old jumpsuit idea bounced back in. I have a very clear vision of what I want and all the patterns are...not quite there. While I was looking at them, I took a total detour away from my vision and decided to make this free peppermint jumpsuit. It's one of the stupendous free patterns from Peppermint Magazine.
I was enthusiastic after seeing this nice version with the zip in the front, and I reckoned I could add some patch pockets to break up the expanse, and if I liked it, I could then modify it massively into that dream vision I have going.
I then realised I had just the fabric!!! A recent purchase from The Fabric Box of 3 meters of this beautiful drapey tencel. I got so excited and away I went. I saw the pattern is drafted for a very tall person and I wasn't entirely sure where to take away that 10 cm. I took away 1 inch on the bodice and 1 inch on the legs. So that's only 6 cm. I measured all the different places and it didn't seem wise to shorten the bodice further...but where then? I'm still not 170 cm tall! I was worried it still might be too long, but I figured tapering the legs and shortening the hems would be an ok option too.
I went by the size chart and debated a bit, then sized down into a B rather than a C. I always struggle with patterns that show your bust and your high bust measurement, because I don't have a measurable high bust due to back muscles. Going by how snug this pattern ended up, I should just use my bust measurement as the high bust. This is obvious in retrospect. If my bust is 33 due to breasts and my upper bust is 33 due to muscles, I still need the room. Things are often tight on my upper bust so I will now be paying this more mind. In theory, since I hadn't thought this through yet, the size B would have 1" ease at the bust and seemed like it would be pretty roomy everywhere else, but it is narrower than that at the high bust. Luckily the SA is 5/8". I know jumpsuits need to be roomy but I also thought this one really needs to fit just right at the bust or it will be sloppy, especially since I had no plan to make the tie. I do not do ties.
I struggled with how I couldn't try this one through the process!! I understitched the facings like mad. They connect under the arms, so they don't flap around and are therefore acceptable facings. I was very stressed about the centre front zip and did a lot of staring at the pattern pieces before I realised I could copy the seam allowance situation from the back onto the front, and vice versa - which worked out fine! But felt so confusing! The process in fact all went way fine considering that I had stressed over it for two days first, and the instructions were totally good and did not irritate me at all. And then I FINALLY got to try on my clown suit! And wow the fit at the bust is snug. Oops.
So I got out the seam ripper and I redid the upper bodice with a 2/8" SA and curved it back to match below the darts. Whew. Fixed! It's good! I can move now and it doesn't pull too hard across the back.
I do notice that if I lean super hard forward, it's snug lengthwise, which is probably why jumpsuits are made with a drop crotch and long bodice. I think I should have made the size C, and that most people would prefer a size up in general if not sure what to do, as it just about catches on my bum instead of flowing neatly over it. But a male friend gave me unstinting compliments so I guess perfection is not the only goal - the male seal of approval is pretty bizarre, considering this is a pastel print sort of shapeless onesie. For whatever reason, when I wear it I think it's hilarious, which makes me happy, and that's a total win. Will see once it's actually (consistently) warm outside how often it gets worn. I might end up narrowing the legs a bit and shortening the hems so I can wear them rolled up with sandals.
No comments:
Post a Comment